With her Autumn|Winter 2015|16 collection, the French-Austrian designer Marina Hoermanseder voyages into fairytale worlds of untamed wilderness and fragile creatures.
It tells of the adventures of nature-attuned childhood heroes such as Wilhelm Busch’s Max and Moritz, Astrid Lindgren’s Ronia the Robber’s Daughter, or Michael Ende’s Momo. Heavy coats, oversized jackets, and opulent collars evoke courageous, freedom-loving characters and draw up images of wild wolf children who travel through cold forests and troubled orphans like Kasper Hauser from the Biedermeier period.
This collection unites soft cashmere and wool blends with lamb napa leather and vegetable tanned cowhide leather as well as modal and wild fox fur. Bellow pockets and leather straps are the red thread that run through the collection. The childhood reminiscent pieces are complemented with a range of classic basics such as silk blouses, warm mohair pullovers, corduroy trousers and leather culottes, for which the legend of Kaspar Hauser and men’s fashion of the Industrial Age served as a template.
The highlights of this oeuvre are the elaborately-finished leather corsets inspired by 17th century orthopedic equipment. Seam- lessly inserted, they point to a fragility of spirit in the collection. Playing with the masculine and the feminine, the designer unifies the disparate elements into an epicine style which is both soft and determined at the same time.
With her playful collection, Marina Hoermanseder celebrates modern androgynous elegance. Creating delicate designs out of hard materials and broad stitches, these pieces of art appeal to the self-determined woman in pursuit of freedom and individuality.