The female archetypes conjured up by Marina Hoermanseder’s Autumn | Winter 2017 Collection are not quite of this world. Brimming with glory and sensitivity, they delve into life with sensuous drama – ominous and enchanting, they seem both worldly and divine.
Grace and a diva-like elegance inform the collection’s striking stagecraft. The realm of opera, with its timeless robes, inspires the collection’s seductive interplay, reflected in a range of multi-layered, complex combinations. At the same time, the line’s overall tone also draws on the 1920s, 1960s and the Victorian era, while modern opulence adds distinguished flair with cool, shiny lilac accents and velvety floral fabrics. For the first time in her career, the designer also opts for surprisingly dark hues and black in all its facets. Delicate drapings, frills, bow details and grandiose volumes inject a sense of added depth. Translucent materials complement this diva-style interpretation; Swarovski crystals lend some of the pieces exuberant sparkle and shine. Bathed in contrasts, the collection blurs the boundaries between Hoermanseder’s ongoing fascination with orthopedics and leather, sensuality and feminine strength. Here, the designer with a penchant for exquisite craftsmanship invites leather constructions, overknee boots, elegant capes and dresses to join forces with fetish elements. Meanwhile, the label’s trademark buckles and leather straps, a statement style since the designer’s graduate collection, underscore Hoermanseder’s inimitable identity and exemplify her pitch-perfect interplay between haute couture and sensitive extravagance.