Marina Hoermanseder’s AW 20 / 21 collection is all about diversity. Here, the designer invites us to explore a wide range of different epochs. Like the interplay of light and shade, her collection juxtaposes light and dark materials as well as mat and shimmery textures to bring out their natural contrast and harmony. Where tough leather meets soft fabrics and opulent shapes meet slim silhouettes, the results highlight the electrifying heterogeneity of creative craftsmanship.
A dusky enchanted forest, governed by a queen in a sweeping, detailed baroque gown, is illuminated by the moon and the radiance of a dazzling creature from a faraway world clad in a glittering Swarovski dress. Their interplay of handcrafted leather flowers and flowing, undulating fabrics feels both mystical and strangely familiar. Puffy tulle with polka dots and tiny pink hearts accentuates a collection that exudes a soothing sense of gentleness.
Hoermanseder’s love of 80s and 90s fashion, already apparent in previous collections, is unleashed in clear stylistic references to both of these decades. For the first time, the label presents a trouser suit in Marina Hoermanseder’s signature style. It evokes elegance and feminine power, just like her sleek leather biker jacket. The latter comes with unconventional puffed sleeve styling, offset by tight leather trousers that draw the eye with clever cut-outs. Imitation snakeskin, iridescent materials and plush-inspired lingerie offer a deft nod to the 90s, the designer’s formative coming-of-age decade.
Snakes are a recurrent motif of the AW20 / 21 collection. While an iconic leather vase doubles as the head of a python thanks to elaborate artistic airbrushing, another snake’s head – embellished with artfully inserted MH initials – resurfaces in a sequin motif, meticulously stitched onto an exquisite scarf. Meanwhile, the designer’s well-known, characteristic buckle gets even more prominent placement on the season’s undisputed key piece, the striking “Buckle Mania” vase. It takes pride of place besides by another highlight, a high-waist skirt fashioned from hundreds of carefully arranged leather buckles that have come to embody the Marina Hoermanseder DNA.
Cult brand Buffalo is the collection’s official footwear partner. In cooperation with Marina Hoermanseder, both labels showcase a varied selection on the runway, ranging from chunky boots and mid tops all the way to high heels.